Because sometimes you just want caramelised onions and blue cheese with your chicken.

Really can't pick a Favourite: brisket is fall apart tender, ribs full of smoke and oink, and those brisket spring rolls bring just a little dark, malty sweetness to the mix. It was so nice we ordered it twice.

Ordered the sausages as an add on, and it's been a while since I've had such squirty juicy bangers. Okay that sounded slightly wrong.

Roast pork and ducks just out of the oven.

But snappy sausages and a tender salmon at Ambush is still nice. Don't really fancy the heavily sauced spaghetti though...

Now this one, despite a gentler cooking method, has almost no muddy flavour at all - just sweet and light and delicate.

Crab stock at Keisuke Tokyo - a cloying, joyless stock, and the spicy miso mince is more like a call of half cold pork clumps. What a letdown.

The textures are all good - splintery taco shells, crisp fries with floury insides. But the tomatoes are weakly flavoured and the barramundi distinctly muddy.

The burn gives way very quickly to a broad, comforting umami from soy paste, that soaks right into the taut frog meat.

I don't think there was any lean meat in there, yet there is no sense of greasiness - instead there's smoothness, a little collagen, and plenty of lovely squelch.

A mean meal, especially fried beef dice that should be inedibly tough, but is instead chewy yet tender.

Sweetish, smoky from charring, the miso offers creaminess to match the crisp dumplings.