Chai Po (preserved radish) kway teow - a quintessential Teochew dish that’s uncommon at hawker centres. If you’re at Empress Road Market, why not try POH (01-89)? They whip up a very good version that has a lot wok hei - aromatic, burnt flavour.

Here the kway teow is fried in the wok at a very high heat that contributes to the wok hei flavour. Add in some sweet chai po, shrimp, spring onions,bean sprouts, a copious amount of lard and wrap it with some eggs - and it’s served. All this for $5.50.

What impressed me the most is the aromatic wok hei in the kway teow that you can even smell before opening the box (I had this as takeaway). And the fragrance of the crunchy, artery clogging lard added a good deal of taste to this dish. Complete with the amount of sweet chai po that again adds another dimension to this humble dish. All of these sounds unhealthy but it isn’t greasy or jelak (cloying) at all.

The wok is not an easy tool to be a master at. I’ll be back to try their prawn paste chicken and other creations.

Available for takeaway. Closed on Mondays.