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This is the Shanghai global harbour branch
Despite the leanness of the meat(maybe attuned to the Shanghainese's healthy diet), it's reasonably tender. Appropriately spicy, with good textural contrast from the super thin and crunchy white fungus.
Since it's not fatty the pork isn't crisped up authentically, however that didn't stop bits of fats from caramelised and producing an intense lard aroma, with a lovely chewy crispy texture
A good version