The Test Kitchen

One of the F&B-related news that had been floating around the local cafe-hopping scene in recent times would be the opening of The Test Kitchen at 18 Cross (formerly known as Cross Street Exchange, or even further back as China Square Central). We had been passing by the hoardings of the establishment for quite a while now during their renovation phase — these folks had finally opened their doors following a slightly delayed launch as per what was reported in the media. For those whom are unaware, The Test Kitchen is a concept by the same folks behind the online-based The Lim’s Kitchen; The Lim’s Kitchen being affiliated with local celebrity Rebecca Lim and her older brother. The Test Kitchen takes up the former space that used to house an outlet of Maison Kayser within the mall; the shop unit being located right beside the window that faces out towards Cross Street. One can find the range of pastries of which The Test Kitchen has to offer being displayed prominently at the entrance; the dine-in space will be towards the right of the counter where one can also find the espresso bar — the dine-in space comprises of a mix of proper dining tables and high tables with seating capacity of each table being configured nicely for patrons arriving in pairs to up to group sizes of four (4) pax. The Lim’s Kitchen was previously noted for their danishes and sourdoughs; that being said, The Test Kitchen has expanded their range of food items to include that of Mezze Bowls to complement their variety of bakes. Beverages available at The Test Kitchen would include espresso-based specialty coffee, teas and non-sparkling and sparkling fruit juices.

Considering how we were dropping by The Test Kitchen during weekday lunch hours, we found ourselves wanting to opt for something sweet whilst going for their Mezze Bowls. One thing peculiar that we had found about The Test Kitchen is how they are using disposable ware for all orders be it dine-in or takeaway. Whilst we do not have much to comment on about the use of disposable ware considering the fast-paced lunch hour crush that dining establishments often face during lunch peak hours, packing pastries into a takeaway box that needs to be folded for dine-in patrons does seem to be a little counter-intuitive as compared to a disposable plate. The TTK Egg Tart does seem like an item that is of a signature of The Test Kitchen especially since the namesake of the item does carry the initials of the shop itself. One can observe how the TTK Egg Tart is one that is of the trendier sort that can be found in more hipster and individually-run bakeries that had opened in recent times; the TTK Egg Tart coming with danish-esquire tart base that is light and crispy with a lingering hint of buttery fragrance. As one sinks their teeth into the TTK Egg Tart, the pastry shatters neatly, all that whilst revealing the warm, moist and jiggly egg curd within. The egg curd itself does come with a degree of sweetness on its own, but it also hints of an egginess amidst the sweetness; there are parts of the TTK Egg Tart where caramelisation had occured with the egg curd during the baking process — further adds on to the contrast of flavours of the TTK Egg Tart.

For those looking for something more substantial to have at The Test Kitchen whilst giving their various bakes and danishes a go, they do offer a small line-up of Mezze Bowls where on can opt for various add-ons that would introduce a meat element to them that makes the Mezze Bowls more filling as well — add-ons which are offered by The Test Kitchen will include items like the Chicken Yakitori, Roasted Wagyu Beef Rump, Sliced Slow Cooked Turkey Breast and Onsen Egg. Between the Cauliflower Mezze Bowl and the Mushroom Mezze Bowl, our choice was for the latter and we did not opt for any of the add-ons that they have to offer — instead wanting to give their default Mushroom Mezze Bowl a try. The menu at The Test Kitchen describes the Mushroom Mezze Bowl to come with elements such as sautéed blend of mushrooms, kale, quinoa salad, chickpea hummus, and toasted sourdough. Patrons do get a choice to opt for their Mushroom Mezze Bowl to come spicy or non-spicy; we went for the former. This does turn out to be quite a light eat considering how there are more kale and other leafy greens than there is quinoa; leaves up with sufficient space to try out their other offerings such as the various danishes that they have to offer — we did find it a pity that much of the hummus can be found at the bottom of the bowl, which would have been a good match with their sourdough toast where we could easily top it off with some hummus, leafy greens and mushrooms that would have been especially hearty. The sautéed blend of mushrooms provided an earthy note, while the kale adds a crisp crunch — the chickpea hummus being the element that seemingly binds everything together, while one can also find nibs of pomegranate seeds that adds a slight zing and a sweetness that runs at the back of the tongue for some flavour contrast. The sourdough toast were also pretty much on point; crusty on the exterior whilst the bread itself comes with a tension when one attempts to chew them apart — also came with a slightly sourish tang that one would expect from the fermentation process as part of the making of the sourdough.

During the same visit, we had also managed to try out one of the two (2) Rondos which they have stocked up in the display case on the day of our visit — between the Milo Rondo and the Salted Egg Rondo, our choice was for the latter especially given our love for all things salted egg. The Rondo is pretty much a rendition of a danish where the dough is rolled pretty much like how a typical Kouign Amann is, but one that comes taller than the standard Kouign Amann whilst also having a smaller circumference as well. Their Rondos do come in the form of a filled pastry, where one can find fillings stuffed in the middle of the pastry. The Salted Egg Rondo does come with salted egg paste that comes atop the pastry and also within the pastry; slicing the Salted Egg Rondo apart, one can also observe the lamination of the dough which creates that layered look of the pastry within — the pastry was light, flaky and subtly buttery whereby it didn’t feel too heavy nor greasy to have. Interestingly, the salted egg filling is done in a way that is closer to that of a paste rather than a molten lava filling; itself not being too greasy but does carry familiar notes of sweet-savouriness which attempts to replicate the flavours of molten salted egg lava in molten salted egg lava custard buns typically served up at dim sum specialty restaurants. Whilst the Salted Egg Rondo does initially sound like quite a heavy item to have on paper, it does turn out to be quite manageable overall.

We also paired everything up with the White Coffee (Hot); pretty much the same as what other establishments would call the Flat White or Latte. We did feel that the White Coffee (Hot) to be pretty decent coming out from an establishment that focuses on their danish and bakes — one that is medium-bodied whilst carrying an earthy and nutty flavour profile. In all, The Test Kitchen is pretty much an extension of what The Lim’s Kitchen; the star items at The Test Kitchen are undoubtedly their range of danishes. That being said, it does seem that these folks had placed a lot of emphasis to create items such as that of the Mezze Bowls that somehow works hand-in-hand with what they are best known for. The quality of their Mezze Bowls also do match that of their bakes — very thoughtful, wholesome and hearty items that would have really hit the spot if they had used proper dining ware with some thought placed in the plating of the dishes. Overall, a spot that would likely find its way to the list of places to check out for avid cafe-hoppers — also looking forward to when they will start weekend brunch service as well!